AT THE HOUSE OF THE VIRGIN
Ephesus, Turkey
We are on our way to the House of
the Virgin Mary. I feel sceptical about any shrine, icon or acts of
intercession as the religious part of my youth was spent in a Congregational church;
the austere side of Protestantism where one’s relationship to God is direct,
personal, without the Catholic practices of confession or praying to saints,
apostles or any intermediary. On arrival, we find we have only half an hour. I
photograph the house; it is square, stone, flat topped and obviously much restored.
I also take photos of the many candles burning outside in the open fronted
glass cases.
It is small inside with a statue of the Virgin at the
front. I pick up my allotted couple of candles, drop a donation in the box and
sit on one of three chairs at the back. Suddenly I start to weep. Unexpectedly
I am crying and crying, praying for my daughter who died eleven years ago. In
the chair to my left is a veiled woman reading a religious text. Beside me, I
press my hand to the stone wall. People enter, stand for a while, and leave. I
cannot leave because I cannot stop crying. The tears spill down my cheeks. I
feel ashamed. ‘Please look after her,’ I pray repeatedly. I hear peaceful music
and the stones against my hand are cool and rough.
I leave and take
my thin white candles out to the sandboxes. Someone has emptied each box except
for two candles at each end. I light one candle and stand it in the box for
Jessie. To whom should I dedicate the other candle? It is no good: I have to
give both for her. I am crying once more.
As place and I
light the second candle a voice beside me asks ‘Are you alright?’ I turn to see
an attractive young woman.
‘Do you need a
hug?’ she continues. I am unable to answer yet we embrace. This is a very long
hug; her head, covered its fine white cotton scarf is on my shoulder as she
says over and over, ‘It’s alright, it’s alright.’
I want to thank
her in Turkish, tesekkur ederim, but
stop myself, as there are so many nationalities here that she may easily not be
Turkish. Instead, I ask, ‘Are you a Christian?’
‘I am a Muslim,
but the Virgin Mary is important to us too.’
I nod, trying to
control my tears, groping for words. ‘Where are you from?’
‘My husband and
I,’ she gestures towards a young man, ‘are from Pakistan, but now we live in
Toronto.’
She is slim and petite
with large dark eyes and a wide smile. Her name is Saniyah. I tell her my name
and that I am from Australia but originally from Connecticut. I tell her this
because Connecticut is close to Toronto, though they are in different
countries. She continues to smile at me as I say, ‘I didn’t expect this to
happen.’
‘I was the same
yesterday at Topkapi Palace,’ she replies. ‘I was so was so close to the
Prophet’s Cloak I could almost touch it. I was over (her English stumbles as
she pauses), overcome with tears because I knew that this would never happen
again.’
I feel like I've just heard a piece of beautiful music and I need to sit in the silence and let it linger.
ReplyDeleteYes, I absolutely love this story. Thanks Pat, for sharing it with us.
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